Friday, January 5, 2018

German Wines in the 21st Century - A Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)

Picture: German Wines in the 21st Century - A Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)

Annette and Christian Schiller participated in the 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference. Annette Schiller led 3 well-attended tastings (Germany, Bourgogne and Alsace). Annette and Christian Schiller poured 5 German wines from VDP producers (the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany) at the Showcase of Wines walk-around tasting dinner during the second evening of the conference.

This posting provides an account of the German wine tasting.

This is the fifth (and last) in a series of postings related to the American Wine Society National Conference 2017 at the Kalahari Resort in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania:

The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Showcase of Wines at the 2017 National Conference of the American Wine Society: Annette and Christian Schiller Present German/ VDP/ Loosen Bros. USA Wines

A Journey through the Vineyards of Alsace - A Tasting Seminar at the National Conference 2017 of the American Wine Society, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)

Burgundy: What makes it so Special? - A Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)

German Wines in the 21st Century - A Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)

The 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference

The 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference took place on Thursday, November 2 to Saturday, November 4, 2017, at the Kalahari Resort in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania.

Close to 800 AWS members from all over the USA came to this 3-day event, filled with tastings, seminars and presentations. The American Wine Society was founded in 1967 as a non-profit, educational, consumer-oriented organization for those interested in learning more about all aspects of wine.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller at the 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA

Pictures: Delivering the Wines for Annette and Christian's Tastings at the Storage Room

Friday November 3, 2017, 2:30 pm to 3:45 pm: 7 Afternoon Sessions (C1 to C7)

C5: German Wines in the 21st Century

Presenter: Annette Schiller, Owner, Ombiasy PR & Wine Tours

Overall, there were 49 seminars, with 7 seminars at the same time. Annette's German wine seminar was in the time slot after lunch on Friday (C5). Annette poured 6 wines. 90 people attended Annette's seminar, including including  Joel Peterson, the Godfather of Zinfandel and Founder of Ravenswood Winery, and Frederick and Maryclaire Frank, Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars.

This presentation showed the shift from sweet to dry white wines, and from white to red wines due to climate change, and the profound knowledge of the new generation of vineyard managers and cellar masters. Another shift can be observed in determining the quality of the wine, from sugar content at point of harvest to the terroir principle. Since 2012 the VDP (Association of Premium German Wine Estates) has implemented a four-tier system that is based on the principle that the vineyard site is the quality criterion. The goal is to enhance the value of Germany’s finest vineyard sites as an integral part of a unique viticultural landscape.

Annette poured 6 wines.

RED

2013 Pinot Noir, Gutswein, August Kesseler, Rheingau
2016 Lemberger, Bunter Mergel, Gutswein, Karl Haidle, Württemberg

WHITE

2015 Riesling, Gutswein, von Hövel, Mosel
2016 Silvaner, Escherndorfer Lump, Ortswein, Horst Sauer, Franken
2015 Grauburgunder, Ihriger Winkelberg, 1. Lage, Dr. Heger, Baden
2014 Weissburgunder, Hohe Gräte, Grosse Lage, GG, Lützkendorf, Saale-Unstrut

Pictures: German Wines in the 21st Century, with Annette Schiller and Joel Peterson, the Godfather of Zinfandel and Founder of Ravenswood Winery, and Frederick and Maryclaire Frank, Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars, among the Participants

The Wines Annette Poured

Pictures: German Wines in the 21st Century - A Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller

 2013 Pinot Noir, Gutswein, August Kesseler, Rheingau

2016 Lemberger, Bunter Mergel, Gutswein, Karl Haidle, Württemberg

Picture: 2015 Riesling, Gutswein, von Hövel, Mosel

Picture: 2016 Silvaner, Escherndorfer Lump, Ortswein, Horst Sauer, Franken

Picture: 2015 Grauburgunder, Ihriger Winkelberg, 1. Lage, Dr. Heger, Baden

Picture: 2014 Weissburgunder, Hohe Gräte, Grosse Lage, GG, Lützkendorf, Saale-Unstrut

Sponsors: Thanks!

Annette Schiller: I could not have held the seminar without the generous support of my wine sponsors. I thank all of them very much for their donations which were instrumental to the great success of the presentation. The sponsors:

Weingut Horst Sauer:
- 2016 Silvaner, Escherndorfer Lump
Weingut Lützkendorf:
- 2014 Weissburgunder, Hohe Gräte, Grosses Gewächs
Weingut August Kesseler:
- 2013 Pinot Noir
Schatzi Wines Import, New York:
- 2016 Lemberger, Bunter Mergel, Weingut Karl Haidle
- 2015 Riesling, Saar, Weingut von Hövel
- 2015 Grauburgunder, Ihringer Winkelberg, Erste Lage, Weingut Dr. Heger

The Winemakers

Weingut August Kesseler, Rheingau

Weingut August Kesseler is located in the town of Assmannshausen, at the eastern corner of the Rheingau. The vineyard area totals 20 hectares, with vineyard sites in Lorch (for Riesling and Silvaner wines), on the slopes of the hills around Rüdesheim and in the Assmanshäuser Höllenberg. The manor house and cellar are situated directly on the slate outcrops of the Assmanshäuser Höllenberg. About 50% of the area is planted with Pinot Noir, with some of the vines more than 70 years old (10,5 ha), other varieties are Riesling (8,4 ha) and Silvaner (2,1 ha). Bottle-fermented sparkling wines as well as grappa-style spirits are also produced. The estate is a member of the VDP.

The foundation of the Weingut was laid by Josef Kesseler, who took over what was previously the Assmanshausen co-operative in 1924. Because of the early death of August’s parents, August (borne in 1958) had to take charge the Estate at the age of 19.

See:
A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut August Kesseler in Assmanshausen, with Winemaker Simon Batarseh – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: Christian Schiller with August Kesseler, Weingut Kesseler, in Assmannshausen, see: A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

The Early Years in Assmannshausen (1977 to 1991)

When August became responsible for the winery of his parents in 1977, he quickly decided to go for the highest echelon and produce premium and ultra-premium wines. He studied at the Geisenheim College, did internships around the world and pushed ahead with Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen. As part of his expansionary drive, in 1984, he bought another wine estate (Weingut Valentin Schlotter ) with vineyards in Assmannshausen.

August Kesseler profoundly changed the style of Spätburgunder from the Assmannshausen Höllenberg vineyard. “We very early – in 1983 – started to ferment our red wines in a dry style. In these days, everything was fermented in a sweet style, Kabinett on average with 30 grams remaining sugar and Spaetlese with 60 grams. Also very early, in 1986, we started to use barriques, unheard of before in Assmannshausen. And we revolutionized red wine making in Assmannshausen by allowing malolactic fermentation. We interpreted Assmannshausen's Spätburgunder tradition in an entirely new way.”

Picture: Christian Schiller with August Kesseler and his Wife in Berlin

Managing Director of Schloss Rheinhartshausen (1992 to 2001)

In 1992, his professional life took a major turn, when August was offered to become Managing Director of the famous Schloss Reinhartshausen in Hattenheim. For many centuries, Schloss Reinhartshausen belonged to the knight of Allendorf. In 1957, ownership passed to Prince Friedrich von Preussen, son of the last German crown prince. Willi Leibrand, founder and owner of the large REWE supermarket chain, bought the run-down Schloss Rheinhartshausen with the vision to bring it back to previous hights. Schloss Rheinhartshausen also comprises a Winery with 100 hectares. August Kesseler – with Chef Joachim Wissler – was hired to implement his vision.

Under August’s leadership, Schloss Reinhartshausen was transformed into an enchanting 5-star-hotel. But August’s success story came to an abrupt halt, when Willi Leibrand died and the ownership of Schloss Rheinhartshausen changed.

In parallel to his career at Schloss Reinhartshausen, August Kesseler pushed his own winery to new highs. So, it did not come as a surprise that he was Germany’s winemaker of the year in the same year he lost his job at Schloss Rheinhartshausen.

Picture: August Kesseler and Annette Schiller

In America (2002 to 2008)

What followed were 6 years in the US building up a distribution network for his August Kesseler wines. “From 2002 to 2008, you can say, I lived in the U.S. I spent perhaps 9 month each year in the US and very successfully built a market there, in 23 States with my own company in Chicago.” Since 2009, Vineyard Brands, has taken over the distribution of the August Kesseler wines in the US. Naturally, a large share of the August Kesseler wines was sold in the US during these years.

Back in Assmannshausen and Relaunch in Germany (2009 - today)

“Now I am back in Assmannshausen and I am relaunching my wines in the domestic market”. All these years, he needed of course a strong team at the winery in Assmannshausen and he does have a strong team there. “I am a team player.”

Weingut August Kesseler Today

Tasting Kesseler's Spätburgunders it is not hard to see why he is considered by many to be one of the very top Pinot Noir producers in Germany - low yields, labor-intensive manual cultivation, malolactic fermentation and small barrel aging. August Kesseler succeeded in creating a market for his extraordinary Pinot Noirs. His ultra-premium red wines sell for 100 Euro plus ex-winery. “And they sell out fast.” 

At a previous visit, August Kesseler showed me (an empty) 2002 Pinot Noir. “This was the international breakthrough for German red wines. The wine got 94 points by Robert Parker.” In Germany, August Kesseler was named Winegrower of the Year by Der Feinschmecker and Wein Gourmet for his 2001 vintage. In its December 2000 issue, Alles Über Wein praised: “August Kesseler’s 1999 and 2000 collection surpasses even his expectations and is surely the crowning achievement of his 15 years as wine maker.”

Though when people talk about August Kesseler, they talk about his outstanding red wines, one should not forget that Weingut Kesseler is also a very strong white wine producer, with Riesling and Sylvaner accounting for about half of the winery’s production.

Pictures: Cellar Tour at Weingut August Kesseler. See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut August Kesseler in Assmanshausen, with Winemaker Simon Batarseh – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Weingut Karl Haidle, Württemberg

Schatzi-Wines: Founded in 1949 by retired, world-class Gymnast Karl Haidle and now onto its third generation, Weingut Haidle has long been a pioneer and leader in fine-wine production in Württemburg.

See: Moritz Haidle, Weingut Karl Haidle, Württemberg, Goes America

Picture: Annette Schiller and Moritz Haidle, Weingut Karl Haidle

Today, the young and energetic Moritz Haidle is in charge of the estate. He is a dedicated organic farmer, and a passionate devotee of hip-hop culture. A talented graffiti artist, Moritz is no doubt a radical figure in the Swabian wine scene, uprooting the traditional image of the staid German winzer. His vibrant character and commitment to terroir translates in the pure, focused wines that are emerging from this deep, natural cellar. Specializing in Riesling, Lemberger, and Spätburgunder, Moritz gives the unique slopes of Stetten a chance to speak with nuance and clarity.

Though one of Germany’s thirteen anbaugebiete, Württemberg still remains one of the country’s slightly obscure viticultural areas; Moritz refers to it as the “outsider” region. Before WWII, wine grapes in the Rems Valley were almost always sold off to the local co-op and the majority of wine production was consumed by locals. It was only over the course of the last twenty years that wines from the region became distributed around Germany and ultimately exported to the rest of the world.

Pictures: Moritz Haidle, Weingut Karl Haidle (Souce: Facebook Page of Moritz Haidle)

Beginning in 1949, Karl Haidle founded his eponymous winery with a single hectare of vines and a vision to bottle his own wine. Sadly, Karl passed away at a young age leaving Mortiz’s father, Hans, to take the reins of the family business at only 23 years of age. It was under Hans’ patient, watchful eye that the winery we see today began to take shape. Hans expanded the holdings to a full 23 ha and dedicated himself to making wine of pinnacle quality, with a focus on Riesling—what is unique in a region more recognized for simple, juicy reds. He became a VdP member in the 90s.

Picture: Deutscher Rotweinpreis. See: The Best German Red Wines - Deutscher Rotweinpreis 2015 (German Red Wine Awards 2015)

The viticultural focus at the estate is summed up quite simply by Mortiz, “we want to work with nature to get long lasting vines with deep roots and naturally low yields.” The fruit is picked by hand and vinified in old, neutral vats some of which are 70+ years old. “I swear by the old barrels of my Grandfather,” Moritz says. The winery is arranged to move the wines via gravity, the whites undergo extended lees contact, nothing is ever fined and they are bottled with just a touch of sulfur.

Weingut von Hövel, Mosel

Picture: Annette Schiller, Max von Kunow, Johannes Hasselbach (Weingut Gunderloch), Alwin Jurtschitsch (Weingut Jurtschitsch) and Christian Schiller at BToo in Washington DC, USA. Max studied with Alwin and Alwin's wife, Stephanie Jurtschitsch, who is Johannes' sister. See: "Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines

See:
Weingut von Hoevel – The New Generation: Max von Kunow in Washington DC, US
"Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines
Weingut von Hövel Joins Portfolio of Schatzi Wines, USA/Germany
Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Von Hövel in Konz, Saar Valley, Mosel, with Owner and Winemaker Max von Kunow - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)
Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Konz could be seen as a quaint, sleepy valley village in the Saar, surrounded by rolling vineyard hills, pastures and small houses with one modest church steeple–though it is anything but old-fashioned when Max von Kunow is around. Since assuming the estate in 2010, Max has nearly doubled von Hövel’s vineyard holdings, converted the estate to organic practices (including an intensive compost program) and he is in the process of transforming not only the viticulture, but also the style of the wines.  Max’s father, Eberhard, preferred swift pressing of the grapes; Max is now working with some skin maceration, especially for the drier range, and a slower, gentler crush for the fruity range.  In fact, a dry range really did not exist at this estate until Max arrived because his father did not prefer them.  The wines destined to be fruity are less opulent than in vintages past; they are more crystalline and crunchy.  In keeping with the organics practiced in the vineyards and the longer hang time prior to harvest, Max encourages indigenous yeast fermentations for all of his wines.

That’s a lot of change for such an iconic Saar estate in a short period of time, but Max is like a Tasmanian devil, wanting everything to evolve as quickly as possible.  He seems up to the challenge! “Saar wines could be the best riesling on planet earth,” Max will tell you directly without any hint of irony or sarcasm.  He is serious and he’s also a schatzi.

Pictures: Weingut von Hövel in Oberemmel, Mosel

The 21-hectare von Hövel estate operates out of a manor house that was completed in the 12th century, where it initially served as an abbey retreat for the famous wine monastery of St. Maximin in Trier. Located in Konz-Oberemmel in a side valley of the Saar, which is known as Konzer Tälchen (“little valley” of Konz), the old cellar is today as it was over 800 years ago. The winery was inducted into what is now the von Kunow family in 1806 when it was purchased by Emmerich Grach—son of a well-to-do chandler and the great-great grandfather to Max von Kunow—the estate’s current proprietor.

Grach was an assistant and deputy mayor of Trier, an influential businessman, and a well-known Weingutsbesitzer, or wine estate owner.  In 1803 he purchased Maximinerhof in Oberemmel and renamed it Weingut Grach, alongside several other well-known estates in the region after Napoleon secularized the vineyards of the Saar and Mosel from the churches and monasteries. Grach’s son Johann Georg became owner of Maximinerhofgut, which later went to his grandson-in-law Forstmeister Balduin von Hövel, a head forester from Prussia and good friend of Kaiser Wilhelm II.

Von Hövel’s great-grandson is Eberhard von Kunow, whose parents bought the estate in the 1950s, at which point the winery began operating under the von Hövel family name.  Eberhard von Kunow, Max’s father, owned and operated the von Hövel estate from 1973 until 2010 when Max (the 7th generation) took over the estate with an impressive debut vintage. While Eberhard produced fruity-styled Prädikat wines, Max slowly began to increase the dry range of riesling in hope to round out a classic Saar portfolio; he seeks to produce gastronomy-driven wines.

After finishing secondary school in 1997, Max took an apprenticeship with Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe region where he decided to follow in his family’s footsteps and pursue a career in winemaking. The following year he worked for Lucashof in Forst (Pfalz), spent time working in Burgundy and returned to Germany where he interned at the Salway estate in Baden; Max completed four apprenticeships before beginning his winemaking studies in 2002. For two years he studied oenology in Veitschöchheim and afterward went on to pursue an International Wine Business degree at Geisenheim. During his time at Geisenheim, Max worked for his family’s estate as well as for Karthäuserhof and Fürst Löwenstein.  He graduated from Geisenheim in 2007 where he worked as an export manager for the Wirsching estate in Iphofen (Franken) and in 2008, moved to Luxembourg where he consulted for 34 private winemakers.  He returned to the family estate in 2010, when his father suffered an unfortunate stroke, jumped right in and as it turned out, achieved great success with his inaugural vintage; he was recognized by Gault-Millau as producing one of the top three Kabinetts (Oberemmeler Hütte) and the top Feinherb Riesling from the Scharzhofberg, both from the 2010 vintage. He took ownership of the estate the following year and has since nearly doubled their holdings.

Pictures: Max von Kunow, Weingut von Hövel, Owner and Winemaker

The wines of Weingut von Hövel say “Mosel” on their labels. Yet, the Weingut von Hövel wines do not come from the Mosel Valley, but from the Saar Valley. Before 2007, the region was called Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, but changed to a name - Mosel - considered more consumer-friendly. The Mosel wine region is Germany's third largest in terms of production but is the leading region in terms of international prestige. The area is known for the steep slopes of the region's vineyards overlooking the river.

Weingut Von Hövel has ownership in the following vineyards; all planted 100% to Riesling:

Oberemmeler Hütte – (5.8 hectare) a monopole of the estate – very light soil, weathered slate, it produces some of the most delicate, subtle, yet steely Rieslings in Germany.

Scharzhofberg – (2.8 hextare) deeper, heavier soil, strong weathered grey slate with high proportion of rocks and gravel (70%), it produces more masculine wines.

Oberemmeler Rosenberg – the estate owns over 2 hectares of the “filet” piece also known as the Rosenkamm, which has many old vine scattered throughout.

Kanzemer Hörecker – (0.6 hectare) monopole – one of the smallest yet greatest vineyards in the Saar, grey green slate with a proportion clay and red soil.

The estate also owns small portions of the heavy soiled Oberemmeler Karlsberg.

Pictures: Vineyard Visit with Max von Kunow. See: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Farming organically was a necessary transition for Max and he has taken it seriously. In addition to completely eliminating the use of herbicides, he propagates regional plants and herbs, prepares his own compost and spreads local straw, marc and raw fertilizer throughout his vineyards. As is the goal of most mindful growers, Max lets the grapes hang as long as possible to ensure they reach—and in some cases exceed—physiological ripeness, or as Max refers to it, “mineral ripeness”; the Saar is the coolest and most windy region in Germany and often requires a longer hang-time than in warmer regions of the world.  He avoids botrytis for the dry range but sometimes includes it for the Prädikat bottlings.

Pictures: Visit of the 800 Years Old Cellar of Weingut von Hövel with Max von Kunow, Owner andWinemaker. See: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

When the grapes enter the cellar, Max separates the fruit that he feels is destined for skin maceration (anywhere between 18-36 hours) from the rest in which undergoes gentle crushing before entering the press. Wines are fermented in either stainless steel tanks or neutral wooden 1000 liter Mosel fuder casks. All of the wines ferment spontaneously.

Here are the Weingut von Hövel wines that Schatzi Wines is currently offering in the US.

Saar Riesling

2016 Saar Riesling Trocken
2016 Sarr Riesling Feinherb
2016 Saar Riesling Kabinett

Oberemmeler Riesling

2016 Oberemmeler Riesling Feinherb

Hütte Riesling

2015 Hütte Riesling Kabinett “Monopol Lage”
2015 Hütte Riesling Spätlese “Monopol Lage”

Scharzhofberg Riesling

2015 Scharzhofberg Riesling Kabinett
2015 Scharzhofberg Riesling Spätlese
2010 Scharzhofberg Riesling Auslese

Picture: Bye-bye. See: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Weingut Horst Sauer, Franken

Weingut Horst Sauer is in Escherndorf in the Main Triangle area in Franken. Horst Sauer made his first wine in 1977, the birth year of his daughter. Since then he has become one of Germany’s truly exceptional winemakers.

Today, the vineyard area totals 20.5 hectares. They are planted with the white grape varieties Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Bacchus, Pinot Blanc and Scheurebe, as well as with the red varieties Pinot Noir and Domination. The output of Weingut Horst Sauer doubled in the past 10 years.

The wines are made in a newly built four-story winery, where the grapes and wines are moved on the shortest possible routes entirely by gravity. This gentle treatment in conjunction with a slow, restrained fermentation yields very delicate, clean, pure wine.

See:
Riesling Gala 2017 at Eberbach Monastery in the Rheingau: A Riesling Feast in a Breathtaking Historic Setting, Germany
 A Riesling Feast in an Historic Setting: Riesling Gala 2016 at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, Germany
Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: Horst Sauer, Ulrich Allendorf, Annette Schiller. See: Riesling Gala 2017 at Eberbach Monastery in the Rheingau: A Riesling Feast in a Breathtaking Historic Setting, Germany

Fantastic dry wines are produced at this estate mainly from Silvaner, but also from Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. Besides dry wines Horst Sauer is known for lusciously sweet specialities.

To get a glimpse into his philosophy of winemaking I will quote Horst Sauer here: “The start of a great wine lies in the winemaker’s imagination. I use to keep close watch on nature. Each year is different. The experiences we made in the past change our view and our range of options. You have to consider carefully when to influence, to control, to improve, and to enhance. And you have to find out at which point control becomes manipulation. Each wine has only one spring, one summer, one autumn, and one ripening season. Once you become aware of this fact, you know what it means to be patient. Only those who have a vision will find the way to their goal.”

Pictures: Horst Sauer and Annette Schiller. See: A Riesling Feast in an Historic Setting: Riesling Gala 2016 at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, Germany

20 percent of the production is accounted for by exports. This is a rather high export share by Franconian standards. Asia and Scandinavia are the main export destinations. Nothing comes to the US. 50% of the production is sold at the winery.


Pictures: Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Weingut Dr. Heger, Baden

Weingut Dr. Heger is a young winery by German standards. It was founded in 1935 by Dr. Max Heger, a country doctor. Today the winery is in the hands of the third generation.

Joachim Heger and his wife Silvia are in charge of 21 hectares planted primarily with Pinot Noir and the white Burgundy grapes. The winery lies in the Kaiserstuhl, a small volcanic group of hills in the Upper Rhine Valley in southwest Germany. The town of Ihringen enjoys the highest average temperature in Germany. While some fine Riesling and Silvaner gets made here, it is really Pinot country. The wines are rich, very well-structured, compact, but nevertheless elegant and subtle.

See:
Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany
Visit: Weingut Dr. Heger in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tours by ombiasy (2014)
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) 

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Joachim Heger

The Dr. Heger estate lies in the Kaiserstuhl (literally: emperor’s chair), a small volcanic group of hills in the Upper Rhine Valley in southwest Germany, northwest of Freiburg. Joachim Heger’s hometown of Ihringen enjoys the highest average temperature in Germany. So, while some fine Riesling and Silvaner gets made here, it is really Pinot country.

The Dr. Heger estate is a member of the Association of German Predicate Wine Estates (Verband deutscher Prädikatsweingüter or VDP). Joachim Heger of Weingut Dr. Heger is the winemaker of the year - Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013.

Pictures: At Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

History

Weingut Dr. Heger was established in 1935 by the grandfather of Joachim Heger, the rural doctor, Dr. Max Heger. His passion for wine and everything to do with wine was kindled by his patients, who were primarily wine growers, as well as his knowledge that the best conditions for wine growing were on the Kaiserstuhl in the south-western tip of Germany. Because of this, he bought prime areas of the well known sites Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg.

From 1949 to the end of the 1980s, Dr. Heger‘s son Wolfgang Heger ran the estate. Joachim Heger took over responsibility for winemaking in 1981, and, together with his wife Silvia, for the winery in 1992.

Vineyards

The main vineyards are: Freiburger Schlossberg (lively, nervy penetrating wines), Achkarrer Schlossberg (more forward, showy with lots of body and soil character), and Ihringer Winklerberg (finer, more elegant requiring more time).

The 21 hectares of vineyards are predominantly planted with Pinots Gris, Blanc and Noir, along with some Riesling and Silvaner, as well as the aromatic varieties Muscat, Scheurebe and Gewürztraminer, which all thrive wonderfully here. In a move toward organic winemaking, Weingut Dr. Heger has retained Claude Bourguignon, the famed French agronomist, as a consultant.

Cellar

In the cellar, Joachim Heger maintains the old tradition of using big wooden barrels to vinify the wines of the Pinot family, whilst using stainless steel for Riesling. 95% of wines are fermented dry.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

Grape Varieties

Riesling (20%) - Joachim Heger: Our single vineyard sites Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg provide optimum conditions for the king of white wines. The weathered volcanic bedrock gives Riesling the mineral compounds it needs to be able to produce its fruity and richly aromatic bouquet and on the palate this Riesling shows typical varietal flavors. In this southerly wine producing region of Baden acidity is generally less pronounced than in the more northerly Riesling regions and this makes the wines fuller in body and more opulent.

Grauburgunder (10%) – Jochaim Heger: The Pinot Gris wines from Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg are characterised by a certain minerality, which gives elegance and finesse, despite the wines’ full body. Thanks to the richness of extract, typical of this grape variety, it is also possible to ferment and mature the wines in barriques as well as large oak casks.

Weissburgunder (10%) – Joachim Heger: The Pinot Blanc’s rich array of fine, fruity aromas come wonderfully to the fore when grown on the soils of the Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg. The bouquet suggests mirabelle plums and green apples and on the palate these continue, together with nuances of yellow pear. If the grapes are harvested at Spätlese oechsle levels, then they are also suitable for fermenting and maturing in barriques or large oak casks.

Pictures: Annette Schiller Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

Silvaner (15%) – Joachim Heger: Ihringen is famous for its long tradition of producing Silvaner and, as a single location, it still has the largest vineyard area planted to Silvaner in Germany. In 1900 the proportion of this ancient variety here was around 70%. The elegantly fruity notes, delicate aromas of pear and gentle acidity are a perfect representation of the terroir of the Ihringen volcanic soils.

Spätburgunder (20%) – Joachim Heger: The pale-fleshed variety Pinot Noir ripens to optimum maturity in the very warm sites of Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg, thereby giving this typical ruby red color. The color must be obtained from the grape skins and this occurs during the classic fermentation on the skins, a method which not only takes a lot of time, but which is also a lot of work. The red wines are rich with concentrated extract, intensified by maturation in barriques. These wines are also characterized by their long ageing potential.

Weingut Lützkendorf, Saale-Unstrut

Picture: Wolfgang Junglas, Uwe Lützkendorf, Stuart Pigott. See: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Weingut Lützkendorf was founded at the dawn of the 19th century and existed until 1959 when the GDR authorities nationalized the property and integrated the estate into the government run Agricultural Cooperative. In 1991, after the reunification of the two German States the vineyards were returned to the family. Uwe Lützkendorf reestablished the winery, revamped the vineyards, and built new production facilities in Bad Kösen. The stony soils and the climate of this northern wine region decisively influences the character of the wines. Uwe Lützkendorf’s philosophy of wine making is as little intervention as possible to showcase the character of the terroir. In 1996 the winery Lützkendorf was the first estate in the Saale-Unstrut region to become member of the prestigious VDP, the Association of Germany’s Premium Winemakers. To listen to him, and also to his fellow winemakers in this former GDR area, recounting their stories of reviving an economic and agriculture waste land after German reunification, is living history and worthy of a spy thriller.

See:
Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours Wolfgang Junglas, Uwe Lützkendorf, Stuart Pigott. See: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

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Visit: Weingut Dr. Heger in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tours by ombiasy (2014)

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Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Wolfgang Junglas, Uwe Lützkendorf, Stuart Pigott. See: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

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